Issey Miyake
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2009
By Tim Blanks
"What's new?" is the most fundamental question in fashion, and it looked like Dai Fujiwara had an answer for it when he called his latest collection for Issey Miyake News Mix. Except that he actually meant North, East, West, and South—all points of the compass that inspired his prints, textures, and silhouettes. There is scarcely much fashion news in ethnic borrowings, and Fujiwara's pell-mell mix of everything from Celtic motifs to Pakistani myths to Japanese artisanal dyeing techniques occasionally veered toward the incoherent side of random, with macramélike mesh and a brocade coat-dress sharing the catwalk. Still, in isolation, there were winning pieces, like the caftan bordered in blue with an eggshell shade coloring the fabric as though the dye had run, or a floating black silk gown with a more traditional Japanese motif. And, as usual, there was no denying the ingenuity of much of the patchworking and hand-painting. Adding to the random feel was the way the models roamed backward and forward across the square of the catwalk. For the finale, they started making sense, falling into a rhythm for one last turn in a series of beautiful dresses that encapsulated all the elements of Fujiwara's global vision. It was a lovely moment, one that made even Joanna Newsom's mewing on the soundtrack appealing.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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