For a young designer, buzz is a complex commodity. It's great to be lauded as the kid du jour, but if you don't sell any clothes, your tree falls in a lonely forest. That's the place Julian Louie found himself last Fall. "This is the season that I want to launch commercially," he explained at his presentation.

Inspired by a sunset seen from a plane window, Louie's 20 looks covered a lovely tonal range of some of the soft nudes and neutrals that have been one of the week's early trends, both on the runway and off. After Fall's strict lines, Louie offered a new softness that should send him straight into commercial arms—floaty crepe de chine dresses and fluid trousers. In each entirely tonal look, Louie added interest by piecing together various textured fabrics—Ultrasuede, moiré silk, tulle, sport mesh—for a study in opacity. He expanded on the idea by using an almost feathery-looking tab fringe strung with Swarovski crystals as trim. As the designer explained, severity is still part of his vocabulary. You could see it here in some stricter silhouettes, but, less literally, it translated as a sort of visual discipline that's an inarguable strength. This collection should help Louie make some consequential noise that's louder than just buzz.