Julian Louie
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
For a young designer, buzz is a complex commodity. It's great to be lauded as the kid du jour, but if you don't sell any clothes, your tree falls in a lonely forest. That's the place Julian Louie found himself last Fall. "This is the season that I want to launch commercially," he explained at his presentation.Inspired by a sunset seen from a plane window, Louie's 20 looks covered a lovely tonal range of some of the soft nudes and neutrals that have been one of the week's early trends, both on the runway and off. After Fall's strict lines, Louie offered a new softness that should send him straight into commercial arms—floaty crepe de chine dresses and fluid trousers. In each entirely tonal look, Louie added interest by piecing together various textured fabrics—Ultrasuede, moiré silk, tulle, sport mesh—for a study in opacity. He expanded on the idea by using an almost feathery-looking tab fringe strung with Swarovski crystals as trim. As the designer explained, severity is still part of his vocabulary. You could see it here in some stricter silhouettes, but, less literally, it translated as a sort of visual discipline that's an inarguable strength. This collection should help Louie make some consequential noise that's louder than just buzz.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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