Goodbye, feathers and fringe. Hello, studs and spandex. After a Fall collection inspired by groovy seventies rock chicks, Jill Stuart
clicked up the hard glamour quotient for an eighties extravaganza. The look here was sexy and aggressive—dare we say a little slutty—with booty-skimming and tight dresses, some inset with sheer panels and metal mesh. It would be very generous to call a white leather corset with laser-cut lace sides a "dress." And an animal-print sequin cocktail number could probably fold up into a party girl's clutch. Some looks came layered with spandex tights that offered a bit of decency, but not much. At times, Grecian-inspired jersey softened the look, either draped on body-con dresses or as a white fluttering top paired with second-skin jeans. But there was still enough hardware to make IBM nervous, with big, fat, glossy silver balls trimming nipped-waist jackets and covering a strapless peplum dress. If it all sounds like a bit much, it was—even taking thematic eighties excess into account. Stuart's look isn't about a minimal runway, but here things got a little messy. As for the designer's girlish fans, they might have a hard time pulling out a favorite. Perhaps for Spring, they'll have to settle for the designer's booming beauty collection, launched earlier this year, which harks back to her romantic, vintage roots.