Wolfgang Joop named his Spring collection "Hurt and Heal." His program notes explained that "after a time of opulence and carelessness, healing has to come." He's not the only designer thinking along those lines; unfortunately, Joop's Wunderkind show took the sentiment way too literally.
Rendered in red or blue toile de Jouy, his blouses, high-waisted pants, peasant dresses, and coats had a country charm that ought to have put him in good company—Karl Lagerfeld himself went bucolic at Chanel. But there was a major disconnect between these clothes and the futuristic knits they were layered upon. Inspired by medical compression body stockings designed to enhance circulation, the unitards came in graphic color-blockings: red, white, and black, with large yellow arrows pointing at the bust or the nether regions. The metal back braces that accompanied some of the looks just added to the head-scratching effect.
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