Underwear has become a dominant theme this season, and you couldn't expect Jean Paul Gaultier to just ignore it. Not when he practically invented the concept with his partner in crime, Madonna. Gaultier fully embraced this latest lingerie moment, naming his Spring collection "The G Spot." (Nothing like putting it all out there.)

Madge's notorious cone-bra corset appeared in many guises: as the bodice of satin engineer-striped overalls during the opening gang-girl sequence, later on in the military section underneath a green-drab skirtsuit, and again with a pair of shorts during the finale's panty parade. One of the models, who wore padding at hip and derriere to make her appear more voluptuous, looked visibly embarrassed when she took her tour in her scanties.

Among the audience, the burlesque queen Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, and Rihanna (who, as we all know by now, is in town shopping for clothes for her next tour) probably ate it up. But to the initiated who've been following Gaultier since his Madonna days in the late eighties, it felt like territory he's explored many times before, and a heck of a lot more subtly.