Jonathan Saunders
LONDON, September 22, 2009
By Sarah Mower
What's inspiring to see from Jonathan Saunders is a vision of how clean, modern print and color can contribute to a wardrobe. Back in London from showing in New York, he seemed to have both lightened up and learned a lot about polish, range, and speed of showing. He took command of a pure palette of white and frosted pastels, added the odd brushstroke of fluoro lime and orange, and overlaid graphic shapes with transparencies and sporty textures.As part of the season's general conversation about pale color and the need for something forward-looking, Saunders' show was both a contribution and a return to form. He said he'd been looking, as he built up his ideas, at the color in the Swedish vampire movie Let the Right One In; the materials, plastics, and packaging of pharmaceuticals; and the purity of early-nineties minimalist fashion photography. Then he went back to getting his hands dirty by personally screen-printing fabrics. Some of the best pieces combined movement with slightly strange color choices: a couple of dusty organza-layered shifts with rectangular prints, and a veiled layering of white chiffon over lime, floated beautifully away as their models walked by.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
