September 21, 2009 London
As part of the season's general conversation about pale color and the need for something forward-looking, Saunders' show was both a contribution and a return to form. He said he'd been looking, as he built up his ideas, at the color in the Swedish vampire movie Let the Right One In; the materials, plastics, and packaging of pharmaceuticals; and the purity of early-nineties minimalist fashion photography. Then he went back to getting his hands dirty by personally screen-printing fabrics. Some of the best pieces combined movement with slightly strange color choices: a couple of dusty organza-layered shifts with rectangular prints, and a veiled layering of white chiffon over lime, floated beautifully away as their models walked by.