Just Cavalli
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 24, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
The Just Cavalli rocker girl has gone grunge. But don't think plaid flannel shirts. She's taking her cues from Courtney Love circa 1993 and layering lingerie slips—some with great big swags of fringe—over slouchy cotton tanks and tees. And she's throwing the occasional vintage-looking pointy-cup satin bra or lacy bustier into the mix. The look came down the catwalk every which way—there were short and long printed chiffon slips for day, along with evening versions patchworked from black lace, midnight jacquard, and tulle. Well before "Smells Like Teen Spirit" came on the soundtrack, we got the message, thank you, Bobby (presumably Roberto was referring to himself on the "Just Bobby" slogan tees).But it wasn't entirely one-note. When she feels like sexing it up a bit, the Just Cavalli girl will have body-con shirred silk dresses to pour herself into, as well as slouchy black sweaters with the snags and mothballs built in and ripped and ravaged jeans and denim minis. If the multicolor leather motocross jacket was a disconnect from a mostly on-point collection, put it down to a revved-up Cavalli's enthusiasm about being back on the runway now that he's signed a new five-year production and distribution contract with Ittierre.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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