The Just Cavalli rocker girl has gone grunge. But don't think plaid flannel shirts. She's taking her cues from Courtney Love circa 1993 and layering lingerie slips—some with great big swags of fringe—over slouchy cotton tanks and tees. And she's throwing the occasional vintage-looking pointy-cup satin bra or lacy bustier into the mix. The look came down the catwalk every which way—there were short and long printed chiffon slips for day, along with evening versions patchworked from black lace, midnight jacquard, and tulle. Well before "Smells Like Teen Spirit" came on the soundtrack, we got the message, thank you, Bobby (presumably Roberto was referring to himself on the "Just Bobby" slogan tees).

But it wasn't entirely one-note. When she feels like sexing it up a bit, the Just Cavalli girl will have body-con shirred silk dresses to pour herself into, as well as slouchy black sweaters with the snags and mothballs built in and ripped and ravaged jeans and denim minis. If the multicolor leather motocross jacket was a disconnect from a mostly on-point collection, put it down to a revved-up Cavalli's enthusiasm about being back on the runway now that he's signed a new five-year production and distribution contract with Ittierre.