Karl Lagerfeld
PARIS, October 4, 2009
By Tim Blanks
The invite featured Mondino's classic shot of skinny Karl as guitar hero. The backdrop was stacks of amps, à la rock band of your choice. So far, so in tune with the edgy scrawniness of this label's wares to date. But then, typical of Lagerfeld, the clothes turned around and defeated expectations. The foundation stone of the collection was shorts. "Not Bermudas or hot pants," the designer was quick to point out backstage, but a contemporary variation that emphasized rounded hips. They looked almost like tap shorts, especially when they showed in white satin.Lagerfeld pushed his idea with all-in-one playsuits—sometimes hanging off dungaree straps, sometimes with no straps at all—which dropped into deep-pleated shorts (it was particularly striking in red leather). This bizarre notion was so insistent throughout the presentation that it took on a persuasive life of its own. And, in its peculiar way, it fit with jackets whose hems were folded up to shoulders that buttoned down. Imagine WAACs hoofing "Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy" on Mars and you get the picture. The clincher was a finale of outfits that were traced with an overlapping silver filigree. It was metal, yes, but it wasn't heavy. In other words, a practically lighthearted approach for a line that has, in the past, made an art of lugubriousness.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
