Kris Van Assche
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 4, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"With everything that's going on, it had to be about what's essential," Kris Van Assche said backstage before his show (referring, of course, to the economy and its effects on fashion, in general, and on his own business, specifically). For the Belgian designer of Dior Homme, what's essential is the menswear element. For Spring, he decided to drape his suits and to approach dressmaking with a tailor's hand. The opening L.B.D., for example, came in a crisp cotton with short sleeves puffed stiff below pinched shoulders. A pair of suits, by contrast, were sashed at the waist with the tails of the shirts worn beneath. A soft, swagged feeling came across via jackets tucked into trousers and pants with smocked elastic sweat-suit waistbands.As ideas go, it was a small one upon which to base a collection. And in just three shades—black, white, and gray—it didn't make for a sizzling runway show. But there may be customers out there for Van Assche's minimal approach, especially in a season when few others are focusing on tailoring.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
