Karen Walker
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
With its funny printed pants, sailor stripes, and boat shoes, Karen Walker's Spring collection initially read "Nantucket." But the designer's inspiration actually came from an oceanfront an ocean away. Walker has been viewing episodes of the cult sixties British television show The Prisoner, which details the life of an Edwardian seaside resort that's in fact a jail for retired spies. Ah, now that's a richer source than a New England island that's a sanctuary for billionaires. From it, Walker extracted not only her raw materials—sailor stripes, navy blazers, the Edwardian frill, and jaunty chinos—but also the idea of opposing forces (as in holiday destination as place of incarceration).Hence Walker's quiet subversion of classics: the outré gold zips on a cropped navy trench, for example, or the unexpected bright hues of the boat shoes paired with nearly every look (a new collaboration with cool Brit brand Pointer). And while some of her prints—like a lovely pennant version on jersey dresses and bags—played directly to the seaside theme, she countered the nauticalia with a fab trippy sixties pattern and a China blue toile.
The effect of all of the above? Signature Walker, mixed and matched with a sure hand, a bit mad yet wholly infectious. After last season's polished look, this was a return to a more girlish silhouette, but there was certainly enough here to lock in the growing number of Walkerites of all ages.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
