Limi Feu
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 30, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Limi Yamamoto's invitation was one of the season's most charming—and most enigmatic. Amid the numbered but mostly blank pages of a small book, a few questions were posed. The designer insisted it was all a joke, but one—"C'est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?"—seemed especially relevant.There wasn't a little of Limi's father, there was a lot, in a collection that was more respectful of her heritage than anything she has designed to date. At the same time, it felt like she was making a statement about Japanese fashion in general. As one of the prominent figures in Japan's next wave, Limi has said she is keen to keep traditional techniques and suppliers afloat while defining her own identity. In the past, she has injected an idiosyncratic, almost frilly take on femininity into the more predictable androgynous, asymmetric vocabulary her father and his peers have made their own. Not so much this time round. Androgyny was the core of the collection. Emblematic menswear details—collars, lapels, pockets—were exaggerated, sometimes to spectacular effect: The sleeves of a crisp white shirt were as wide as a kimono's but still had buttoning cuffs.
The androgynous point was reinforced by a handful of male models—all shapes and ages—wearing the womenswear. Asymmetry was emphasized in skirts that were gathered at one ankle. A chambray with indigo dots felt like the kind of artisanal fabric the grand masters of Japanese fashion would be drawn to. They'd also surely approve of the swelling volumes of the dresses that closed the show. Like the rest of this not entirely typical Limi collection, those looks left an odd but not unappealing sensation—almost as if the designer were selflessly saying, "Let's win this one for my dad, for my country."
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
