October 02, 2009 Paris
The challenge has been to add a believable clothing offer, and in this show, Vevers began to get on top of it. His palette of sandy beige suedes, contrasted with a dash of orange, looked punchily chic in the opening passage of easy trenches, as did the Amazona, updated with patent orange handles. Those, and an oxblood coat that looked like a serious investment piece, seemed likely to please connoisseurs of classic quality, but the surprises were all in the little dresses. Paper-fine leather and suede dance frocks were treated to perforations of such delicacy that they looked like lace—one was a gilded fairy dress; another, a ballerina tutu in dark chocolate.
There were also moments of humor: One model carried a clutch of brown paper shopping bags that were, in fact, made of caramel leather. Vevers also offered comparatively workaday pieces, like leather trousers and jeans with whip-stitched leather military stripes on the outside leg, but it was his "summer" leather dresses that marked this collection as noteworthy. Loewe may never be a collection that justifies a grand runway to frame what it's about, but this season's intimate presentation succeeded in conveying the specialness of the brand's craftsmanship.