Newish creative director Raul Melgoza has been the force behind much positive change at Luca Luca
. The days of Paris Hilton dressed in pastel tweed, preening as the star of a circuslike front row, seem like ancient history. For Spring the designer was taken with the louche Rive Gauche glamour of the seventies. It's not quite one of the decades that's currently trending in the fashion world, but, hey, we can always be convinced. However, Melgoza fell a touch short of making his argument, which didn't offer a clear new way of looking at the reference. Wide-leg jumpsuits and even high-waist trousers had an almost costumey feel, while awkward funnel-neck suits seemed wholly out of place. Dresses in tiered silk and a chiffon animal print were undeniably high points, worn as they were with wild, loose curls and M.C.L.'s kaleidoscopic enamel jewelry, but they didn't fully redeem or refine this seventies show.