Louis Vuitton
PARIS, October 7, 2009
By Sarah Mower
First impression of Louis Vuitton: confusion. As editors and VIPs scrambled to take their seats in the dark, security guards in the courtyard of the Louvre were shouting, "Vite! Vite!" and maneuvering people through the doors (punctuality is the thing at this house these days). Meanwhile, models in giant Afro wigs were already trotting past several empty front-row seats. What was the look? Another calculated mix-up Jacobs later summarized as being "about travelers—the movement that came after punk. Then we were thinking about hiking, trekking, and then denim and parkas—city utilitarianism."What did that actually mean? At first sight, Japanese by way of early Galliano, though it was hard to find a definitive label for the sporty, couture-ish, military, metallic, glittery layering going on. There were brocade cycling shorts, pleated kilt-cum-belts, army-pocketed jackets, neon and nude camouflage slipdresses, and LV-stamped ombré-dyed denim looks with fringed edges. Tubular sport drawstrings were used as cross-lacing up the sides of leggings and later got chopped up and applied to body dresses in swagged appliqués vaguely reminiscent of Native American jewelry. Among the sport mesh and draping in the abbreviated prom-meets-tennis dresses, there was a flash of a brilliant green pailletted number that seemed to link back to the army subtheme (though it hardly matters where it came from, it was so cute).
Apart from that, though, there was less of the sugar-coated overt luxe of the last Vuitton collection. In fact, all the action was in the super-young accessories. Toggles, tassels, and fur tails dingle-dangled off squashy backpacks and satchels, while head-turning suede peg-heeled clogs (the season's funniest take on the resurgent kitten heel) sprouted fur patches and hardware. When Jacobs took his bow, he was wearing a pair of them himself.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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