Matthew Ames
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Talk to Matthew Ames about his designs, and the transplanted Midwesterner will invariably get around to their roots in American sportswear. There's absolutely nothing rah-rah—or even sporty—about his sophisticated work, but he is indeed part of a continuum that stretches back to Halston and Geoffrey Beene. What, after all, could be easier, more basic, than one of Ames' color-blocked silk T-shirt dresses?Spring's brights—inspired by the minimalist paintings of the American artists Ellsworth Kelly, Agnes Martin, and Brice Marden—were set off against a counterpoint of graphic black and white. Light as his touch is, wearable as his garments are, Ames has a serious attitude about what he does. He continues to be preoccupied with "organic architecture" and "the idea of purifying the form." His goal is to interfere as little as possible with his fabrics, and with few seams and a lot of liquid draping and wrapping, he produced a sharply focused show that wowed with its clarity and color. The only thing it lacked was a sense of play—and that's nothing a peppy tune and a smiling model couldn't fix.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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