Marchesa
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 16, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Penélope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Kate Beckinsale, Rachel Weisz, Kerry Washington, Ali Larter, Sharon Stone, Bar Refaeli. That's a list of women who, in a single month this year, all wore dresses designed by Georgina Chapman. So why do they love Marchesa? "Do you know what? I don't actually know, but I'm so glad they do," laughed Chapman at today's Chelsea Art Museum presentation.Well, Chapman might not be able to quite put her finger on it, but she clearly knows better than to mess with the unmistakable and ultraglamorous bones of the look. For Spring, her reference was Madame Butterfly, which led in a straight line to the formal kimono wrapping of stiff satin gowns and flat, obi-esque folds. More obliquely, there was something of a set-design element to the very matte black and white dresses that almost looked as if they'd been cut out of paper. And, of course, the drama of Chapman's signature sculptural and gravity-defying ruffles of horsehair is nothing short of operatic. But, with few exceptions, that's not the dress that elicits a swoon from actresses, like the trio of Blake Lively, Maggie Q, and Emmanuelle Chriqui that lit up the gown-ogling crowd today. Rather, it's something like the breathtaking Grecian draped column partly masked with carefully beaded black lace—simple but exquisite.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
