Marni
MILAN, September 27, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Many thoughts chase through the mind while watching Marni. To start with, you're curious about what's new: This time, the girl's got a hippie head scarf tied over artfully disheveled hair; dangly flower earrings; a terra-cotta duster coat over odd, stripey leggings. You wonder if you're getting the point—are the silky, floppy trousers and jackets pajamas? You fret over how difficult the muted plaster pinks, mousy beiges, and rusty browns are to name. You smile at the fact that Marni polka dot comes in spots of variegated sizes. You clock a subdued Deco twenties thing going on in the knits. You like the high-waisted, vertically striped knitted skirts, and write down "return of kitten heels." You note the vague link between some puffy-collared, putty-colored sleeveless jackets and the military trend. You're sure you get that dangly earring now. You get a bit bored. You perk up at the bright red and yellow blurry fifties flower prints and the sequined jazz-age chiffon bits and pieces. And then, when the finale finally comes, and the girls file out at high speed, you think, "Oh, that looks good, all together."In other words, it felt like a longish haul to sit through this Marni show. It could have done with a harder edit and more of Consuelo Castiglioni's much-loved summery print and color. But then again, the cumulative effects are gently compelling, and if this collection won't change the face of fashion, never mind: Its followers will like it just the way it is.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
