Walking into Martin Grant
's Marais atelier, you were greeted by a glam occasion dress—a strapless red taffeta number with a grand bow at the waist and a sweeping train that's destined for awards-show appearances. But in a season when transparency has become a fashion-wide preoccupation, the real appeal of this collection was that Grant came up with chic clothes for real life. No visible bras and panties here, just a well-edited lineup of little dresses, pantsuits, and trenches that, without ever inching into humdrum workday territory, will appeal to a working woman—one who puts in time at the office and goes out at night.
A fitted dress and a jacket with notched shoulders had the bold proportions still in vogue, but for the most part Grant pushed draping, not structure. The one-shoulder silhouette dominated. It came knee-length in red washed silk crepe or silvery charmeuse, and long in a more substantial black silk twill. The last was actually two pieces, a bustier and a dramatic wrap. Platinum-plated brass jewelry, sometimes integrated into the strap or belt of a dress, was eye-catching, too.