The hip-hop nomads on Missoni
's Fall runway have landed at an Ibiza rave for Spring. They've traded in their piles of mohair and cashmere for loose-mesh, three-dimensional, and openwork knits. Picture a bandeau or two stretching across the bust of a tube dress worn underneath a long, breezy duster coat, or a cardigan cropped right below the armholes as the finishing touch for a bodysuit and miniskirt with a twisting, knotted waistband. There were a few dozen variations on this theme. For evening, Missoni simply added a layer of sparkle: A fishnet tank dress strung with paillettes was pulled on over a slip; a one-shoulder dress covered with iridescent plastic shells went over a racerback tank. Day or night, the looks were accessorized with whistles on silver chains, bracelets gripping each bicep, and low-heel sandals with woven souvenir ankle bracelets for straps.
Backstage, Angela Missoni explained that she thinks fashion moves too fast, and that it was her intention to follow closely on what she did for Fall. As far as that goes, she succeeded, but somehow the effect wasn't the same. The color palette wasn't quite as seductive as those wintery sweaters, and the layers, despite the way they were designed to cling, didn't do enough to flatter the models' figures. Whether it was island ravers who inspired her, or nouvelle Isadora Duncans as her show notes had it, this conclusion lingered: When it comes to dancing and summertime, a sense of lightness is key.