Miu Miu
PARIS, October 7, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
As Paris winds down, one of the city's big stories is its designers' fascination with youth. Leave it to that Italian iconoclast Miuccia Prada to crystallize it in an oddly captivating collection that combined short, high-waisted Lolita dresses with naïve animal prints (and one not-so-G-rated lounging-nude motif). "I was questioning innocence, questioning youth," Prada said backstage. "What do they mean today in a world that's the opposite?"She is a designer who's always embraced the perverse, so about halfway through, the cat and bird and dog prints got some company in the form of holographic paillettes and crystals embroidered on sheer nude mesh insets. These, along with cutouts that bared skin on the torso, upped the provocation factor on the little-girl frocks, but it was still hard to imagine fashion sophisticates like Kate Moss and Renée Zellweger, who sat opposite each other in the front row, finding many occasions to wear them.
In the end, Prada's final judgment on our age-obsessed culture wasn't entirely clear, but it's interesting to note that the best looks in this quirky, challenging collection were the pantsuits. With their sophisticated, narrow lines, they didn't quite fit into this season's naïf narrative. But they did make playing grown-up look like a lot of fun.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
