Maison Martin Margiela
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2009
By Sarah Mower
What on earth is happening to the Maison Martin Margiela? No one within the house has ever broken the code of omerta that forbids the utterance of inside information, but from the look of the collection—and the aghast expressions on the faces of the formerly avid consumers who lined the bleachers to watch it—it's nothing very good. The subject of whether or not the founder is still at the helm may be shrouded in mystery, but this much can be said: What was sent out for Spring was such a stuttering, ill-sequenced pastiche of the rigorous, witty, avant-garde thinking that used to stream out here that it is almost unkind to enumerate the ways in which it disappointed.The press release announced that this collection was an investigation of "volume and texture" (but aren't they all?). In brief, the texture was paper and synthetic foil; the volume, various experiments in adding frontal attachments to jackets and extensions to the hind quarters of cutaway chaps. There was a lot going on with bodysuits and baggy scrunched-down boots, which at certain points involved trailing tapes. That was followed by an apparently random sequence of hyperreal tropical-scene photo prints—they looked like a genuinely bad-taste echo of Miuccia Prada's deliberately kitsch prints of the same sort of subject matter.
For the purposes of a "summery" theme, those prints will certainly provide bright T-shirts and commercial-looking printed beach bags to bulk up the Margiela stores. Some long, slim dresses might also appeal to the existing Margiela customer, once they're made less sheer, and shorn of the chains that dragged in their wake. Yet as streamers exploded overhead and the models came dancing out in white paper T-shirt dresses in a celebratory finale, nothing could dispel the deepening mood of despondency that sank over the exiting crowd.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
