Moschino

MILAN, September 26, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Life is a bowl of cherries at Moschino, to judge by the collection Rossella Jardini sent out for Spring. First Lady Michelle Obama may have worn the label on several occasions, but there wasn't much FLOTUS material on today's runway. Reworking some of the familiar house tropes, Jardini's focus was playful, not presidential. The de rigueur trompe l'oeil and surreal touches were all there: White topstitching traced the lines of a classic trench on a simple black dress, while the sparkly straps of a cocktail number formed a peace sign on the model's back. And one cropped jacket came with miniature, well, jackets for pockets.

The cherries came in during the second half of the show—on a baby doll, among other barely-there frocks. There were also scribbled sunflowers and prints of ceramic dishes. For the finale, they were all patchworked together onto party dresses that were encrusted with bibs of crystals and colorful stones, not to mention accessorized with bangles on both wrists, gold hoop earrings, and heart-shaped hats. It was predictably, almost relentlessly, upbeat. Seeing Jardini get in touch with her serious side would've been the welcome surprise.

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