Mulberry
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
"I always have a lot of references," Mulberry creative director Emma Hill said backstage after round two of the label's four mini-shows. For Spring, her list included abandoned fairgrounds, Sofia Coppola's The Virgin Suicides, refracted light, and Tim Walker photographs. Hill set her scene just right with a runway that wound around a spooky-sweet circle of carousel horses, with the soundtrack of Air's "Highschool Lover" putting all present into a dreamy fashion trance. That hazy element of Hill's vision was a boon to the collection, keeping its sweet touches of big bows and puffed sleeves from becoming saccharine.The look was Coppola's Lisbon sisters crossed with your cool seventies babysitter, the one with the groovy fringed leather bag. She would have been thrilled to see the swingy strings on the stacked-heel moccasin booties that ended up being an integral part of the postshow chatter. There was fringe on bags, too, but the best was a simple, double-buckled messenger named the Alexa after New York's newest fashion obsession, Ms. Chung. Also of note was Hill's recasting of the label's signature leather jackets, the biker and the poacher. Now in washed soft hues, they're the kind of thing you want to wear every day. Now that's a fashion dream.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
