Last season, Nicole Farhi
was talking about toying with eccentricity, confronting the downturn by messing with things a little. If this show's opening outfit—a lilac taffeta trench, teal bandeau, and pink shorts—wasn't truly eccentric, it was a promising start, as though maybe Farhi was still feeling the same for Spring. She cited German Expressionist Emil Nolde as an inspiration, which meant color-blocking was a key element in the collection. In fact, it was almost as if Farhi thought she should let nothing get in its way, because the shapes were simple nearly to a fault. Shifts, shirtdresses, shorts—they were canvases for the color. There was some of Farhi's signature artisanal craft here in brushstroked organza or a raffia top. Though these pieces didn't help the show deliver on its initial promise, they also didn't distract from its proposals for the easiest warm-weather wear.