Nathan Jenden goes two ways: night or day. He's either showing something dark and gothic or he's pumping up the volume with flashes of color. Maybe it's seasonal, because last Spring was a bright thing for him, and so was this one, following on the heels of a particularly sepulchral Fall collection. After Chanel Iman hit the runway in a button-covered Pearly Queen blazer and a flared skirt lined in fuchsia, Jenden was off in a rush of exotic color, decoration, and Bollywood graphics. He still liked his classic structure—the peplums, the pencil skirts, the kick pleats (and a cape-backed jacket with jodhpurs)—but then he'd drop a baby doll into the mix, or a flaring orange ballerina skirt with pink peeping out from underneath.

If there have been murmurs about diversity on the catwalk again this week, Jenden had a full casting of black and Asian models. And the full-on finale—all the girls dancing down the runway—provided a welcome antidote to flagging fashion-week energy levels.