"This season was more about how I dress," Nicole Miller said backstage after her Friday night show. And judging from the swarms of well-wishers who crowded in for a little face time and Champagne, her personal style has plenty of admirers.

So, what is the Miller aesthetic? Streamlined, sporty, and sexy.

Sexy was the overarching mood, with graphic cutouts and sheer paneling put to good effect (especially on a wear-with-everything black chiffon tank). This was body con that wasn't too "body": a marketable idea, surely.

So it was a shame that some of the embellishments cheapened the overall effect. Miller's interest in opalescent fabrics was too much in evidence; they added little to otherwise sleek separates. There was an appealing versatility in a series of side-draped dresses in prints and solids—they could be one thing with flats and quite another with, say, a caged gladiator bootie. But the best pieces were the simplest, like a scuba-stretch dress in charcoal gray, the designer's favorite color of the moment.