Ohne Titel
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 12, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
It's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill's moment in the sun. As CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award finalists, the young Parsons grads have all eyes focused upon them. And today, with a confident and accomplished collection, they proved they can stand the heat, thank you very much.Egyptian wall paintings from the New Kingdom were the designers' touchstone. This was most obviously reflected in the color palette of neutrals punctuated with black and red, and in the lace-up shoes by Cesare Paciotti (certain to be in high demand). Some of the graphic knit pieces featured intricate mummy bands; others had laced neck braces that marked another step along the dark bondage continuum that had colored Ohne Titel's Fall lineup. But as dramatic, well-constructed, and photogenic as these pieces are, they'll compete for editorial pages with other members of the body-con school, a class that includes Phi, Preen, Rodarte, and Joseph Altuzarra.
More interesting was the tailoring, which has been the cornerstone of the label since its launch. The imposition of draped asymmetries culled from the ancient Egyptians upon Adams and Gill's modern suiting produced phenomenal results. As seen on model Iris Strubegger, the final look—a silk blazer worn over a draped, embroidered, and feather-festooned dress that was nearly Belgian in its purity—had a romance and urbanity that belied the designers' age and experience.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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