Tia Cibani is a wanderer. Each season her show has reliably evoked a new place, be it India, the Pacific Northwest, or Scotland. But today she broke from her formula somewhat, giving Spring's outing—titled Fluere—a more general touchstone, the beauty of nature, upon which she juxtaposed a certain Japonisme. In expanding her theme beyond geography, the designer fell less often into the bear trap of literalism that has hobbled her in the past. With organza cloud coats, jersey T-shirt dresses (worn with vinyl or organza ballet flats), and obi-bustiered cocktail dresses, she achieved the "clean romance" and "poeticism" she was aiming for.

"I felt that it was time to pare down a little bit and be more quiet and discreet," Cibani said of her new mood. Pared down and discreet, indeed, were many of the looks…but, alas, not so the length of the show.