Preen
NEW YORK, September 11, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The British Fashion Council, celebrating its 25th anniversary, lured many Brit designers home this season—but not Preen. "We love New York and we love London," Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi explained via e-mail shortly before their Spring collection hit the runway, "but showing in New York has vastly increased our business internationally and in the U.K."Like any smart concern these days, Preen focused on profitability as well as its core values—which the program summed up neatly, free-association style, as: "sectioned, graphic line, lingerie fragility, Corinne Day early 1990s." With the starting point of "a piece of cord wound around the body," it came as no surprise that there was also more than a touch of soft bondage, too. We're not talking whips and fetish shoes, though. This dress-heavy collection was very romantic, infinitely more sophisticated than kinky. It featured many marvels of sculptural construction, with single pieces stitched from up to ten different fabrics and/or featuring topiary frills that weren't especially inviting of touch.
Where the piecing and ruffling worked best was, respectively, on some fierce silver pants and broad-shouldered blouses. The suiting, some in a square-embossed silk, was another high point of the show. There were also shoes—a new category for Preen this season—with cordlike details that should have some fashion types positively tied up in knots.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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