Pringle of Scotland

LONDON, September 21, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Having previously shown in Milan, Pringle of Scotland has been brought back to Britain for London fashion week's 25th anniversary by its new American CEO, Mary-Adair Macaire. It seems entirely logical—the company is, of course, a Scottish one. To mark the occasion, she and the designer, Clare Waight Keller, threw a dinner at the Saatchi Gallery after the runway show. Much will be written about that, and the fact that Tilda Swinton had been asked by Pringle to make a movie with Ryan McGinley in which she roams a Scottish castle, barefoot in evening gowns.

But what about the clothes? Waight Keller went all out to remind the audience that Pringle is a knitwear firm. Sound policy, but what does a knit collection look like for Spring? The answer was a mixture of chunky, open cable-knit cardigans; fine-gauge fit-and-flare dresses; and a development of the multilevel ruffled short skirt that's cropping up in a lot of places this season. Waight Keller kept color to a minimum, using white, gray, and lemon. At the end, two versions of the "Tilda" dress—long, satin, with complex straps crossing a bare back—came out. Swinton, meanwhile, was wearing a white tuxedo and silver foil T-shirt from the men's line for the evening.

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