Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, September 16, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"We wanted something young, something that felt fresh, so we looked to surfing and skating, the things we grew up on," Lazaro Hernandez said backstage after Wednesday's fun, energetic Proenza Schouler show. Any of that sound familiar? Hernandez and his partner, Jack McCollough, started playing with tie-dyes and scuba elements for Resort. Here, they pushed the idea: They took the notion of track jackets wrapped around waists and built those elements right into tank dresses and shirtdresses, and they teamed a pair of color-blocked track pants with a great tailored jacket for a sporty-chic effect. It's the sort of nonchalant look a lot of designers struggle to pull off; these guys nailed it effortlessly.As for those tie-dyes? There was nothing hippie about them, cut as they were into micro-mini racerback tanks or shifts and trimmed at the hem with thick layers of plastic fringe. For evening, the silhouette was short, short, short. A few of the cocktail numbers featured the bra-cup bodices the duo has made their signature, mixed here with tiers of micro ruffles. Other dresses floated away from the body in dense embroideries of beads and feathers, and still others featured the brightest, most novel animal prints to hit a runway in recent memory. Each look was perched on wedge-heel woven sandals as colorful as the clothes, and a few of the models had blue or purple streaks in their hair. There have been moments in the last couple of seasons where the boys—at 28, they still qualify for the term—were straining a bit too hard to come off as "grown-up" designers. For Spring, they found a groove with a concept so simple it should've been more obvious: designing for the cool girls they like to hang out with.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
