Rag & Bone

NEW YORK, September 11, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have been in major expansion mode, adding a Soho store to their New York City retail mix, launching sunglasses, growing their accessories collection, and, on top of it all, they both recently became fathers for the second time. Who has time to think about designing clothes? In fact, this season the duo decided against using any tricky themes or making some overwrought reference in favor of going back to their design roots—if a four-and-a-half-year-old label can have them, that is. "With the economy where it is right now, we're focused on what we're about as a company," said Wainwright after the show, "which is our English, military-school heritage mixed with a utilitarian, made-in-America ethos."

Simple enough. And that was the strength of this collection: uncomplicated pieces like a cargo-green army parka layered on top of an easy, oversize tuxedo shirt and a little dagger-print skirt; or a gray silk cropped jacket thrown over a couple of drapey cutaway tanks and leather pants that somehow managed to be skinny and slouchy at the same time. You could complain that drop-crotch long johns are a little heavy for spring, but why bother when they look so right? Indeed, by the looks of Rag & Bone's backstage well-wishers—the top brass from Saks, Bergdorf, and Macy's—Neville and Wainwright are definitely onto something with this back-to-basics approach.

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