Roberto Cavalli
MILAN, September 26, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Conceptual and Cavalli aren't words usually found in the same sentence, but this season he shelved the high-octane, ultra-sexy glamour he's famous for and replaced it with something more unexpected. Calling the collection "a hymn to a simpler lifestyle, far away from the limelight," Cavalli layered floral-print sack dresses with elements borrowed from the boys: boxy pinstripe jackets and low-slung trousers that exposed the waistbands of boxer shorts, and silk button-downs topped by scarves wrapped snugly around necks. Trompe l'oeil apron dresses featured calico florals in front and sheer black chiffon that exposed bra straps in back. In some cases, he replaced the mannish pants with transparent ones. There were shades of both Jean Paul Gaultier and Marc Jacobs in the mix-and-match, masculine-feminine pull of the clothes. But as one editor put it: Does anyone really want to wear two outfits at once? More to the point: Do Cavalli's customers?He simplified for evening, showing one vintage-looking pink nightgown with ruffles cascading down the back and a few others in washed silk or bleached denim that were pieced and swirled around the torso above full skirts with asymmetrical hems. They weren't overtly sexy, but Cavalli's limelight-loving city girls will be able to relate to those.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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