Raffaele Borriello is now a solo act; his partner, Julien Desselle, left the label recently to pursue a career in architecture. But the change in personnel didn't do much to alter the dressed-up sensibility of the Requiem brand. The collection, Borriello explained, was inspired by the elegant women he met at a party in Buenos Aires, Argentina, while on holiday there this summer. Aside from the tango-ish polka dots on a short-in-front, long-in-back dress, though, this was still very much a ladylike French look. That's why Borriello set up his mannequins around a table at the Hôtel Le Bristol. Requiem's ladies who lunch will fight each other over a black coat-dress with diagonal pleating that puts an emphasis on the attenuated waist. After dark? They'd vie for a pair of one-shoulder cocktail dresses, the first in white and lavender with jeweled embroidery on its single capped sleeve, and the other in faded blue ruched silk with a dusty rose strap.

This was a slight collection, bordering on inconsequential, but presumably Borriello will have more to present next season, when he's become accustomed to being a one-man show.