Richard Nicoll
LONDON, September 20, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Dusty pretty colors, simple unforced shapes, and enough quirky detail to make it interesting: All these summery qualities came together on Richard Nicoll's runway. "I was looking for that balance between urban dressing and escapism," he explained. "I looked at early photographs of Tahiti for the prints, but really it just felt like a consolidation of everything I've done." A good self-assessment: In the past, Nicoll has quietly put out good pants, jackets, and shirts, but they've often been presented in ways that don't quite work with the rest of his show pieces; or he'll go off on a tangent and appear to be a different designer than he was the season before. This time, partly because of his choice of floppy silks, the continuity flowed. Between the pants, the breezy square-cut dresses, and the sarong skirts, it all conveyed a grasp on real dressing with a pretty but not saccharine edge. That understanding of ease in daywear is something too few designers have, and it looks as if Nicoll, an Australian, has discovered the confidence to put into action something he knows innately.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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