This was Marco Zanini's second collection for Rochas
, and after last season's arty installation, it was time to show his stuff on the runway. He ramped up the entertainment factor accordingly, adding a lot more color and print to a lineup that, like Fall's, was built on slip dressing, tailoring, and knits. The starting point, loosely speaking, was a French woman in the colonies. "I wanted to explore everything that feels French apart from the Tour Eiffel experience," Zanini said backstage. Translation: You'll find his girl in Indochina, where she wears ripe shades of aubergine, paprika, saffron, lemon, turquoise, and mint and never, ever goes out without a flower at her waist. A belted white silk slip, accessorized with a boater, sandals, and ankle socks, looked straight out of Marguerite Duras' The Lover
. But Zanini's expat might also pair a sheer sleeveless blouse (retro bra fully visible) with cropped lamé trousers or choose a seriously short knit dress with a flaring ice-skater skirt, or even forgo getting dressed entirely and lounge around in a navy polo and matching briefs.
Zanini proved he has a bold eye for prints with the acid yellow and green duchesse satin jacquard he used for a long-sleeved sheath, as well as a kimono floral pattern that appeared on a shirtdress. If the collection didn't deliver the high-fashion thrills that Olivier Theyskens' shows for the French label once did, it did look like it'll have legs on the selling floor. These days, as well we know, that's what counts.