September 12, 2009
She launched her lower-priced Rachel by Rachel Roy line this summer, and if you're angling for one of the bubble skirts that once encapsulated the designer's girly look, that's where you should go. For Spring, Roy is taking her signature collection further down the path she set out on for Fall, a newfound focus on strong tailoring and, to a lesser extent, draping. The show opened on a quiet, somewhat restrained note, with a sleek gray pantsuit; a beaded, fitted T-shirt dress topped by a short skirt in the same cool shade of smoke; and a come-hither wrap dress with a plunging neckline. The middle section consisted of bright colors, often in surprising combinations that somehow clicked—an emerald jacket with a petal hem, say, paired with a cadmium yellow top and a fuchsia matte crepe wrap skirt. At the end, it was back to black: a smart sheath with a cropped jacket draped over the model's shoulders and a strapless L.B.D. with asymmetric ruffles down the bodice. You couldn't call it a reinvention of American sportswear, but Roy is rethinking her own label, and in a way that jibes with fashion's current direction.