Martine Sitbon's Spring show was a homecoming of sorts. Not only did she leave her traditional sixth-arrondissement venue for the space above her Rue du Mail
store in the second, she also returned to what she likes to think of as her signature look: soft little dresses with hidden constructions that hold you in. The accent was definitely on the waist, but these were woman-friendly frocks, not so much corseted as gently curvy. A fire-engine red silk number with a draped and slit skirt struck a sexy note, as did a body-loving L.B.D. with a white beaded neckline that looked like angel's wings. A delicate, silvery white silk duster worn over a matching slipdress with a swirling appliqué down its front was more ethereal. Ditto the tank dresses in pale washes of watercolor pastels.
This was a narrowly focused, somewhat repetitive collection. It could've used some more looks along the lines of the gray blouson, racerback tank, and high-waisted cropped trousers that slinked out toward the end. But it wasn't all frocks. Sitbon also did some great-looking trenches that the girls wore buttoned to the throat and firmly cinched. Perfect for those days when your dresses are at the cleaners.