Ruffian
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
It was business as usual at Ruffian, and by that we mean Brian Wolk and Claude Morais presented clothes designed for the pursuit of pleasure: a ruched party dress whipped up in a colorful, Picasso-esque print on silk taffeta; a micro shift embroidered all over in beads; a black cotton Swiss eyelet baby-doll dress. This collection, more than their last, had a dressed-up feeling that the designers' detractors call prissy.It's true, Ruffian's brand of ladylike is about as far as it gets from the tough-chic body con and tailored androgyny that are fashion's current fixation. But it wasn't all frivolity and frills. The second look featured a vaguely military-looking dress with epaulets at the shoulders and two rows of brass buttons marching up the front, and the two slouchy, slightly oversize trenches in the same washed beach linen had a swagger that even the edgiest types probably couldn't resist. The team's second-skin jodhpurs—they called them "equestrian tights"—make for a sexy, seasonal alternative to the ubiquitous leather legging. Still, the show's strongest piece, a strapless dress in nubby black-and-white bouclé with a flash of baby pink at the neckline, was unabashedly feminine. Good for them for sticking to what they do best.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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