Stephen Burrows
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 17, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
"Fall was about money and employment; Spring is about relaxation after all the stress," said Stephen Burrows prior to his intimate showing. Burrows certainly seemed at ease in his talent, working with lightweight fabrics and fine mesh inserts (as on a fit-and-flare dress in inky black that exposed peeks of a red underskirt). The idea, the designer said, was to create the sense of beachy calm that being near the ocean instills.In this context, Burrows' famous lettuce-edge technique (which showed up at Marc Jacobs, too, this Spring) took on the aspect of seaweed, sequins became the glint of sun on surf, and a jagged-hem minidress looked like it had been mangled in the jaws of a ferocious shark (albeit one with a superior sense of silhouette). If it was difficult to connect the dots between the color-blocked pieces that opened the show and the sequined ones that closed it, the collection's standouts were easy to spot. A crisp white ensemble with a twisted-lapel top was as sharp as a sail, and a black and seafoam jersey combo—worn by house "mascot" Anna Cleveland—swelled and draped with the liquid motion of the tide.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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