October 02, 2009 Paris
Kokosalaki's appeal as a woman designing for women is that she can pull off a young interpretation of "feminine" without being cloyingly girly. Her plissé dresses—including one in vertical pleats with sheer, flippy under-layers—and a pristine white pique shirt with shorts looked fresh, with a kick of sophistication provided by elaborate cross-laced shoes. (They had started on the drawing board as Greek sandals and ended up with sculptural "draped" copper heels.) Where Kokosalaki really scores, though, is in her sensitive but sexy evening constructs of crinkled silk and draped netting: dresses that turn to show beautiful back views of knotted tulle on bare skin. To end, she added a section of thorn-embroidered flyaway white chiffon dresses that had the cool edge her fans love.