Temperley London
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 15, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
It was a circus at Temperley London's MAC & Milk presentation. Designer Alice Temperley skipped a runway show for the second season in a row in favor of a static installation; this time it featured a film projected from an old-fashioned zoetrope. On the video, real-life contortionists, trapeze artists, ballet dancers, and knife throwers modeled the clothes that were displayed on the mannequins. The big-top inspiration was at times quite literal: A black-and-white harlequin print decorated a roomy jumpsuit, black knit tank dresses came embroidered with buttons à la Cockney pearly queens, and horses marched across a leather belt that cinched a red intarsia sweater dress.If all that sounds riskier than tightrope walking, Temperley has never been one to shy away from embellishments. The ringmaster top hats did add an element of costumery to the proceedings, but there were enough other pieces to ground the collection in real life. The still-going-strong body-con look was covered with a cropped black jacket and matching narrow skirt detailed with tiny black studs, and cocktail dresses with contrast-piped seams and corset lacing. And picking up on Spring's new tribal trend, Temperley showed a long net dress stitched with scrollwork to evoke tattoos. Lastly, heeding the call for lower-priced items, she's just launched a diffusion line: Alice by Temperley is doing a brisk business, she said, back in her showroom.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi 1911 Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
