Tim Hamilton said he was influenced by the Catherine Deneuve movie The Hunger. That meant there was an early-eighties sensibility to the collection's draped tailoring and body-conscious dresses. A copper red blouse with padded shoulders worn with high-waisted, tapered pants with sloping pockets in the same rich shade proved he has a sense for the bigger fashion picture, as did a black leotard with a second-skin mini. But there were a few puzzlers in this modest show, like a pair of pants with fabric wings protruding from the pockets, and a scanty beaded bandeau top paired with black military fatigues. Who's the customer for those?

Hamilton lives and works in New York; he picked up the Swarovski Award for Menswear at the CFDAs this June. So it's a bit of a mystery why he's decided to show his nascent women's collection in Paris (his menswear presentation there in June received a somewhat cool reception from critics). Surely he'd have a bigger fan club cheering him on back home, and he might be better served by building the brand DNA before trying to make his mark on the world stage.