Like a musician or filmmaker who returns to the same fodder over and again, Todd Lynn
is obsessively devoted to perfecting a point of view. He designs clothes you imagine yourself being zipped into. But what once looked unforgiving had something almost amounting to ease this season. It was partly the natural linens and cotton jerseys, the leggings that bagged slightly, and the silhouettes which, though strong, were achieved with seaming that was softer than padding. Lynn's attention to the body was still fierce in a black leather waistcoat that belted down the side and in a collaboration with jeweler Shaun Leane that produced two jackets with huge metal shoulders bursting through the linen like sci-fi Caddie fins. (Take that, Christophe Decarnin!) Pushing the silhouette to the max in such a powerful way unleashed Lynn's inner barbarian. The horsehair that sprouted from seams may have been a reference to his inspiration, a heroine of the Tuareg nomads named Tin-Hinan, but it was also well in touch with the pagan spirit that has made Rick Owens such a fashion force. Ah, easeful paganism.