Something Alexander McQueen said about the unnecessary pace of change in the industry got Munich-based Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof thinking about what attaches women to their wardrobes. What makes a dress a favorite dress? That's where they started for Spring. So why, one wondered, was their collection so insistent about a silhouette that was essentially a bathing suit? There was a pinstripe version with an obi-like belt, a chiffon style with puffed sleeves, and one in stripes with a crisscross bodice. Granted, we're talking spring/summer, so there's a possibility that a bathing suit might indeed be a favorite piece. But some of these dresses will have to work at becoming wardrobe staples. The most disconcerting feature was a pleat of fabric that was draped across the bodice and gathered to one side at the waist. It looked clumsy. There was also a heaviness to a one-shouldered tweed column and a single-shouldered pinstriped gown whose other shoulder was draped with a mass of beading.

Still, the label's cocktail dresses have a solid trunk show-worthy following with the Bergdorfs and Neimans of this world, and there was some art to that tweed when it appeared as a skirt paired with a top in a print of the same material, photographed as it unraveled.