Milan Vukmirovic debuted his first women's collection for Trussardi 1911 at the brand's newly opened Piazza della Scala concept store today. He's been showing his menswear at the label for a couple of years, and he used elements from that side of things as a starting point here, explaining he'd had girlfriends buying pieces from the guys' stuff. His Spring line for men was partly inspired by the American West, and here he used colorful Native American beading on the shoulders of cropped washed leather jackets, as well as a beaded photo print on a slinky jersey cutout dress and a ruched pantsuit.

That last look might be a tough sell with the designer's gal pals, but there was plenty more that meshed with the edgy rock 'n' roll sensibility that the fashion world is vibing on at present, from a buff suede bondage-laced sheath and a denim bustier dress (handmade using patchworked faded jeans) to an easy jumpsuit and second-skin sweaters and leggings for layering. The shoes and bags take their cues from the collection, so they're embellished with fringe, hooks and eyes, and tie-dye detailing. Trussardi may be just shy of a century old, but there's nothing stodgy about the direction Vukmirovic has in mind for it.