Tuleh
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 13, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Bryan Bradley is a designer who is much engaged in the world of politics—and the arts, for that matter, and literature. You're as likely to find Lisa Yuskavage, the painter, or a Broadway star in his front row as a member of the ubiquitous Gossip Girl cast.Aiming for "more gravitas," Bradley titled this evening's show Fashion as a Short-Story Collection. He was inspired by an article in The New York Review of Books by the writer Deborah Eisenberg (whose partner, actor Wallace Shawn, was in attendance, and whose expression throughout was priceless). The collection was divided into distinct parts (i.e. short stories), including a closing segment called Proposition Tuleh. Having turned his sights on the presidential election with his Fall 2008 show, and what he termed "Western entropy versus Eastern ascendancy" for Spring 2007, Bradley this time took on Proposition 8, the California ruling recognizing only marriages between a man and woman as valid. The lineup ended with not one but seven bridal looks, alternating masculine pants or shorts ensembles with feminine dresses and skirts. "They're marrying each other," Bradley explained.
The short-story concept was clever, yes, but it fragmented the Tuleh message, siphoning off some of its charm and diffusing a bit of its energy. There was less color and print than usual (here, perhaps, was some of the "gravitas"). On the other hand, there were also enough neat knit cardigan jackets, silky cargo pants, bow-trimmed shorts, skorts, eyelet blazers, and flirty dresses to keep us turning the pages.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Danielle Scutt Daryl K Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton LP.BG Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Talbot Runhof Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Tim Hamilton Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trussardi Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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