September 11, 2009 New York
"I had flowers on my mind," Pham said. Inspired by the garden parties of the Wallis Simpson era, he and Aoki showed big picture hats that made the models look like dolls, two-toned Deauville-ian spectator shoes, tea-length hemlines, and much curvilinear and organic (as opposed to geometric) origami construction. The French illustrator Pier Fichefeux provided a primitivist bloom print that was sewn up into both cocktail and day looks.
Although there were plenty of sophisticated party dresses here, there was also a sense of childhood innocence, of playing dress-up. Pumps were sparkled up with a confetti sprinkle of sequins; taffetas were metallicized to add texture and glitz; and Empire-waist jumpers—like the inky one with sheer insets that closed the show—brought a touch of Pierrot to the joyous goings-on.