Versace
MILAN, September 25, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Vivid pastels, geometric prints, baroque curlicues, short-short skirts, and slinky, sexy chain mail: Where else could this be but Versace? For Spring, Donatella Versace was telling everyone who went backstage that she'd been inspired by Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland (which comes out next March). "I loved the idea of that fantasyland," she said. Really, though, you didn't need to know that to appreciate the fact that this was Versace redux—the Gianni heyday of the early nineties retooled in a gloriously confident way. Good timing for it, too. Donatella might have spent the last few seasons concentrating on making her collection look grown-up, but now that so many others are making the most of thigh-skimming lengths, busy prints, and glittery glamour, it's an opportune moment to drop all that and show them how it's done her way.She did it classily, seeming for the first time to have overcome any tentativeness about reveling in the territory her brother famously carved out. In their tiny pelmet skirts, jazzily printed dresses, and super-fitted suitings, the girls were all legs and glossy hair—quintessential Versace women (though, it has to be said, still quite a lot thinner than they used to be in Gianni's day). That's a powerful sight to see on any runway, but somehow none of it came across as too slavishly reverential or in any way vulgar. Part of that is down to the Versace way of making things, in an atelier that is as superb as it's always been. When she sets about adding silver metallic embroideries, using perforated and studded leather, or draping a pink chiffon evening gown, Donatella has the technical effects completely under control. The result: a sure-footed, happy collection guaranteed to pique the interest of her daughter's generation.
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Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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