September 26, 2009 Milan
The dresses, constructed with Chantilly lace stretched over cutouts, some with fan-pleated skirts and neoprene trimmings, aren't literal revivals, though Kane's heroine sent him to study her brother's work, and her own, in the family archives. Kane's favorite detail is what he calls an "arm support"—a cutaway sleeve so technically tricky he says he'd never have been able to make it back home in East London. "The pattern cutters here are amazing," he marveled. "I just have to do a sketch, and the dress comes back perfect." (Only the sunglasses are vintage Versus, retrieved from stock made in 1999 and certain to be a big seller.) Despite numerous requests, buyers had not yet seen the results of the relationship that started in 2006, when Ms. Versace donated chain mail to the student who was desperate to source the hard-to-find material for his master's graduation show. There's plenty of chain mail in a couple of the Versus dresses, too, but the boss swears prices will be reasonable. "It's a young collection," she growled. "I make it a young price."